Hello from Gulf Shores, Alabama, just down the street from Fort Morgan (which we visited in 2020 and highly recommend). The trip we've had down South has been more tiring than we had hoped, but we've seen some amazing sites. Early rains messed up our plans, so we'll be circling back as we head home, hoping to hit some of the places we had to skip early on.
I'll go into more detail, likely with videos, over the next month or so, but for now here are a few places that we really enjoyed:
I'll go into more detail, likely with videos, over the next month or so, but for now here are a few places that we really enjoyed:
Ulysses S. Grant Presidential Library
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Did you know that Ulysses S. Grant has a Presidential Library? If you didn't, it's probably because it's at a place where most people would least expect it: Mississippi State University in Starkville, Mississippi. Why Starkville? Well, the people who founded it felt Grant really became the infamous Grant while he was in Mississippi during the Civil War. The most awesome thing here were the Grant likenesses at four periods in his life: A cadet at West Point, a General in the Civil War (shown above, a President, and a dying man writing his memoirs so his wife would be taken care of when he passed away. They literally took all of Grant's measurements from those various times, used real life people and clothes of the same size, and made the most lifelike replicas I've ever seen. It was completely worth the long trek from a far away parking lot to the 4th floor of the Mitchell Memorial Library. And if you want a great lunch while you're there, hit The Little Dooey, an amazing BBQ joint where you could really taste the labor of love put into smoking those meats to perfection. Even thinking about it makes me want to jump in the car & drive four hours just to eat there once more before the trip ends.
Beauvoir/The Jefferson Davis Presidential Library & Museum
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In Gulfport, Mississippi, you'll find two key sites for the only President of the Confederacy, Jefferson Davis: Beauvoir (his final home) and The Jefferson Davis Presidential Library & Museum. They are on the same property, so head to the library/museum first to get your tickets to see the home & all the rest. Beauvoir has been tenderly cared for over the decades, even with hurricane damage & such. There are a lot of family items there and our tour guide, Donna, knew that place inside and out! I absolutely love it when the guides are really connected to the home & family they are representing. The Library also includes a museum, so it's worth it to go & spend a morning or afternoon there. There are plenty of places to sit & rest, such as on the front porch where you can see & hear the Gulf waves, in the garden, or even in one of the rooms at the Library that was playing Gods & Generals while we were there (though it was advertised the film playing was Gettysburg - so I'm guessing they switch between the two).
Memorial Hall: Louisiana's Civil War Museum
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In New Orleans, Louisiana, down the street from the epic National World War II Museum, is Memorial Hall, Louisiana's oldest museum. It's also referred to as the Confederate Memorial Hall Museum (if you search for it online). The amount of treasures in this modest (yet architecturally magnificent) building is jaw dropping. They do a wonderful job telling the stories of the personal effects they have from each person, which gives it a lot more meaning than just random items. Yes, it is mostly stories from the Confederate side, but they are still people, and there are some very heartwarming & heartbreaking stories. Mostly heartbreaking, as one can imagine. They also have a very substantial gift shop with many items I've never seen before. If you're in the mood for pizza afterwards, G's Kitchen & Bar is where we love to go when we're in the neighborhood. It's only three or so blocks away, and easy to get to by foot.
Fort Gaines
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We took our favorite ferry from Gulf Shores, Alabama to Dauphin Island, where we spent most of the day at historic Fort Gaines. Forts like these are complete gems that I can't recommend enough. They have a small museum & a decent size gift shop, but the main attraction is how accessible the fort is. It's great for the person who likes a little adventure and doesn't mind walking into some very dark, old spaces. There are beautiful views, fresh breezes...who could ask for more? And if you want to see Fort Morgan while you're down here, which is just across Mobile Bay from Fort Gaines, both are very different and I'd recommend seeing them both.
Meridian, Mississippi
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The city of Meridian, Mississippi has ten stops on its Civil War Trail. General William T. Sherman's men captured the city in February 1864 and inflicted heavy damage on it. A few of the stops are just signs talking about things that happened during the Meridian campaign. You can tour Merrehope, one of the six structures that wasn't burned down, along with several cemeteries around the area for the Confederate dead. The downtown area is quite nice, and if you're looking for a good Southern meal that is reasonably priced along with some serious dessert options, you want to go to Jean's.
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